Super-idyllic Savonlinna lies deep inside Finland – four hours by bus from Helsinki or a short 45-minute flight. A postcard-perfect town in the midst of some of the country’s most beautiful nature, where lakes, islands, and forests endlessly flow into one another. On a small island rises a raw yet well-preserved medieval castle, perfectly sized to hold a stage and more than 2,000 audience members in its courtyard. That was precisely why the idea for an opera festival emerged here in 1912 – one of the oldest of its kind in the world.
Opera can be many things – affected, extremely moving, snobbish, tear-inducing, dreadfully boring, or simply too much. This very range makes it the most fascinating – and the most expensive – of all the musical art forms. The question is whether it makes a particular difference that a production takes place in such picturesque and historically authentic surroundings, or whether the castle merely functions as decorative scenery, adding a feel-good effect for an exclusive audience enjoying their white wine with extra pleasure during intermission at a genuine medieval fortress.