Estonia is an unusually small country with an unusually rich and multifaceted musical life. In the corridor leading passengers out of Tallinn Airport, large posters display photographs and life-philosophical quotes by Arvo Pärt, whose global fame has long since become something the country proudly brands itself with.
I have just landed and am on my way to Estonian Music Days, the contemporary music festival that, under various names, has existed since 1979. Like many others, I was first introduced to Estonian music through the works of the now 90-year-old composer. Yet these posters also draw my attention to the contradiction he, in a sense, embodies.
On the one hand, he is a mainstream icon who has helped place Estonia on the cultural world map. On the other, he is a massive elephant in the room for the country’s musical life – one that undoubtedly benefits from the attention his reputation has brought, yet must also constantly struggle to free itself from the dominance he inevitably exerts, both internally and externally, as the single most towering institution in Estonian music.